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Fall in love with Bangkok in seven steps

By Isabelle Davies 

I love Bangkok – I’d visited half a dozen times before I made it my home for five years. Now living in the UK, I miss the magical mix of the super modern and old school that the Thai capital offers. These are the places I go and the things I do whenever I’m back in the Big Mango. 

  1. Walk from Si Phraya ferry pier to Chinatown via Talad Noi

The contrasts of the super modern and the historic, the flashy and the traditional are what make Bangkok such an exciting city for me. The Si Phraya ferry can take you across the river to Bangkok’s most luxurious mall, Icon Siam. Instead, stay on the eastern bank and walk north, exploring the backstreets for a glimpse of a completely different city. You’ll spot shop houses where families have lived for generations, car parts being sold out of beautifully-aged shuttered buildings and atmospheric spots to stop for a drink like Baan Rim Naam [Instagram https://www.instagram.com/baanrimnaam/?hl=en]. You can make it an art walk by starting at Aurum gallery (owned by music producer and artist Goldie) which always has some interesting pieces and taking in the street art at Talad Noi. By the time you hit Yaowarat road you might be ready for a snack. 

  1. Check out Chinatown

Post-pandemic Chinatown is heaving but the food and atmosphere makes joining the throng worth it. The food stalls lining Yaowarat road and side streets start up at 5pm and the light towards the end of the day is particularly photogenic. There’s so much choice it’s hard to go wrong, but look out for kuay jub nam sai, rolled noodles in a peppery broth with a choice of pork cuts. For something sweet try khanom buang, a thin pancake topped with coconut cream and bright orange threads made of egg or pa tong, Chinese donuts dipped in pandan custard or condensed milk. If you need a chilled place for a drink after the bustle, head to soi Nana Chinatown (not to be confused with soi Nana on Sukhumvit). The street has several shophouses turned into trendy bars.    

  1. Get on the water

A tour of the canals (called khlongs in Thai) on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya river is another great way to see the contrasts of the city. Hire a longtail boat to take you past the main sights on the river, old and new, and then into the khlongs where you’ll see the people who live on the canals going about their lives. Keep your eyes peeled for monitor lizards and egrets. You can pick up a longtail boat tour near Phra Sumen Fort on Phra Athit road. If the price is too steep, hop on a river boat from the pier on Phra Athit to take in the views along the water for a fraction of the price. Whether you’ve taken a khlong tour or the river boat don’t miss Wat Arun, a Buddhist temple inlaid with porcelain on the banks of the river. 

  1. Sunset with a river view

You could shell out for a drink on the terrace of the Mandarin Oriental but there are alternatives with as good a view for a fraction of the price. Samsara Café and Meal https://www.facebook.com/samsarabkk/ is as close to the water as you can get and the food is good. If you prefer a rooftop, River Vibe https://www.facebook.com/rivervibe/ has a great view of the curve of the river including Wat Arun. For somewhere livelier, Jack’s Bar https://www.facebook.com/xleksilombar/ is on the river between the Mandarin Oriental and the Shangri-La. 

  1. Take a tuktuk around the sights

Taking a tuktuk is fun, full stop. But a tuktuk at night around the historic part of the city is brilliant. The streets are clearer so your tuktuk can zip past the Golden Mount, Democracy Monument and Grand Palace all lit up before dropping you off for a drink. 

  1. Grab a drink

There are some great alternatives to hectic Khaosan road very nearby. Phra Athit gets lively in the evening, especially at weekends. Join locals in one of the bars and maybe catch some live music. Adhere the 13th blues bar just over the khlong from Phra Athit has live music every night. At the weekends the crowd spills out onto the street. The streets opposite Adhere the 13th are filled with bars, cafes and restaurants. If you’re peckish take a seat on the street outside Aunt Lek’s stall on Samsen 4. Watch the woman wok-up a storm before finding another spot in the neighbourhood to watch the world go by over a cold beer. 

  1. Eat, eat and eat some more

Food really matters to Thai people; whenever I asked a Thai colleague what their plans for the weekend were, ‘eating’ was always part of their answer. Living back in the UK, these are the dishes I dream about. Pomelo salad is a tongue thrilling mix of sweet, sour, salty and hot where the pomelo cools the copious amount of chilli. Yum hua plee is a salad of crunchy banana flower enveloped in a salty, spicy dressing mellowed with coconut cream. Ma Hor (galloping horses) is a mind-blowing mouthful of spicy pork sitting on tangerine segments. Seek out khao soi – a spicy, rich curry soup with soft egg noodles, pickled veg and crispy noodles on top. It’s usually with chicken but you can find versions with beef, lamb or tofu. 

Reach cloud nine in Bangkok

  1. Walk the backstreets of Talad Noi
  2. Hit Chinatown as the sun goes down
  3. Take a khlong tour
  4. Visit Wat Arun
  5. Have a sundowner on the river
  6. Bar hop along Phra Athit road
  7. Check out who’s playing at Adhere the 13th 
  8. Cocktails with the cool kids on soi Nana Chinatown
  9. Eat everything! 

About me

I’m a former teacher and freelance writer who loves travelling and being by the water. Find out more about me at https://isabelle.creativeark.io/

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