Nikole Wintermeier

@nikkiwin (private account, but shoot me a DM!)

Here’s everything you need to know about the road from Chiang Mai to Pai by scooter. Have you been discouraged from tackling the road by bike? My travel turned out to be less treacherous than originally anticipated.

Tackling Thailand’s ‘Treacherous’ Trail: From Chiang Mai to Pai | July 2023 | Life Lover Magazine

After a few months in South East Asia at the start of 2023, I ended up in Thailand with two of my best girlfriends. Fiona, Jessy, and I had all quit our jobs and were on your typical ‘millennials on sabbatical’ trip.

When we decided we were going to drive scooters on the 130km trail from Chiang Mai to Pai in Northern Thailand’s mountains, we weren’t exactly encouraged. Many ‘mansplained’ the journey to us. Others made a show of giving us a once-over before making a comment.

It wasn’t long before we did away with these stigmas, proving we were just as capable, and on the same budget of badassery, as our male peers.

“You wear jeans!”

Me (left), Jessy (right), Fiona is taking the photo. Stopover at Huai Nam Dam national park.

For female backpackers, Thailand is an obvious choice. It’s the most typical trail blazed by tourists and, for women, considered as safe as it is accessible. Back home, my male friend urged us to, “rent scooties from Chiang Mai to Pai.”

We were by all means not the first tourists to drive up the windy roads to Pai. In Chiang Mai, Aya Services is the most popular scooter rental place because they take your bags and shuttle you back down from Pai on a bus.

Admittedly, our ‘go with the flow’ mantra made for poor organizing on this side of the trip, and Aya Services was booked up. More poor planning: we ended up in Northern Thailand during ‘burning season’, when everyone recommends you stay away from this part of the country. Coupled with the dry season and smog, crop burning sets pollution levels extremely high this time of the year.

The last thing you’d want to do is drive a scooter for five to eight hours outdoors, right?

We ended up renting our scooters from a tiny shop next to our hostel (‘Poshtel’) which meant we had them for three days. Just in time to drive from Chiang Mai to Pai and back.

Our hostel manager took one look at us and said, a little incredulously, “You drive to Pai? Three days?” We nodded. He gave our short shorts and tank tops yet another once-over,

“Be careful, ok? Many, many turns. Many, many accident. You wear jeans!”

Me (left), Jessy (right) looking for a scooter rental place on our first evening in Chiang Mai.

Photo by Josh Withers on Pexels.com

The 762-turn road to Pai

Jessy stopping so we could take a picture on the way up to Pai. We wanted the view, but smog forced us to settle for a picture of the road instead.

“There are 762 turns to Pai,” – locals kept telling us. I wondered who had time to count the turns to Pai, and why. To scare off tourists?

Granted, we had enough reasons why we shouldn’t drive ourselves to Pai. The guy at the rental place also gave us a once-over – “You are sure sure you want rent scooter?”

You could take the bus to Pai if you don’t mind potential car sickness. You could even rent a private van. Some Irish backpackers we met on the road rented a car. Of course, it’s not uncommon to see motorbikes or scooters driving the same windy, mountain roads, yet that didn’t mean we were going to be flippant about it.

“We want one 160cc scooter, and one 140cc,” we told Scooter-Rental-skeptic, who promptly brought forth Monster Bike (160cc).

At 8am the day after, with Fiona on my back and Jessy on the 140cc scooter, we made our way in the early morning haze towards Pai. With our jeans-covered legs and scarves wrapped around our faces beneath helmets to stave off the dust, we were hot and sweaty by the time we got out of the city. But after three hours at 80km/h the wind is biting and you’re grateful for your layers.

Tourists in Pai are notoriously covered in bandages from accidents or falls along the same road. “Sketchy Thai drivers will cut you off,” we were told. And above all, we were warned, do not take the road after dark, for there lacks lamplight and potholes streak the cement.

However, our experience of the ‘treacherous’ 762-turn road to Pai wasn’t that treacherous at all. The roads are good. In 2023, the Thai government invested $14 billion in tourism, and since this is a road oft-traveled by tourists the cement is well paved, roads are well-signposted, and there are clear lines for overtaking.

What was the fuss all about?

Overstated or underestimated? The plight of the female traveler

We can’t recommend phone stands enough, even if there is only one direction to go. Especially if you’re more than one driver. Without many places to stop and wait for each other, having a phone stand helped us navigate turns and stay together on the same road.

Jessy and I grew up in Switzerland, so maybe we’re used to driving up mountain roads. The Chiang Mai to Pai road felt uncomplicated at worst, and gratifying at best. We were prepared for dirt in our nostrils and calloused palms, but not for the rush and reward of easy driving.

Nonetheless, we were grateful for our 160cc bike, especially carrying two people. After four hours we stopped at Huai Nam Dam national park for lunch, a small but welcome detour, putting our total driving time (including three stops and Chiang Mai traffic) at seven hours.

Another stop fifteen minutes from Pai is the Pai Canyon. Our view was smoggy and overcast so we had glorious passion fruit juices overlooking the white Grand Canyon-style cliffs instead.

Pai Canyon

We always switched who rode which scooter (Monster Bike was always in hot debate) and leaned into the curvy 762-turns pretending we were on motorbikes. If one of us forgot to turn off our blinker – two honks. If one of us wanted to stop to take a picture – raise your right palm. If one of us thought the other was going too slow – just take over, we don’t have all day.

On the way back down from Pai to Chiang Mai, I listened to music for two hours while Jessy drove Monster Bike, and may have even dropped off a little, lulled by the hot wind in my back and overcast sunshine.

I wouldn’t recommend a short nap on the back of a scooter though. If you don’t focus, you could miss a turn and fall off the ledge. But as seasoned drivers, we weren’t going to slip up. Yet, I couldn’t help but wonder why we were so heavily cautioned against taking this trail. I imagined my male friend from home was given a pat on the back and a resounding ‘good luck’, whereas we were warned and questioned time and time again.

We all know what kinds of stereotypes people attach to female drivers. Maybe that’s why they underestimated us. It’s not the first time that’s happened, and most likely, for me as a biracial, petite, woman, not the last.

Sai Ngam hot springs, a 20-minute ride outside of Pai.

Tricky but not ‘treacherous’ – being smart on the road

As a female traveler, there are stigmas you can get behind: it’s not always safe to walk by yourself in the dark, you might get harassed in a mixed dorm hostel, and don’t get too drunk if you’re alone.

Me on Monster Bike.

Then there are these stigmas: women can’t drive, can’t take risks, and if they do take risks they get into trouble. It was interesting, hearing about all the accidents people had on the same road we took. We thought the road was effortless, and we did it with similar ease and speed on the way down.

It only took us five hours back down the mountain. We stopped for coffees at Witch House, and then randomly picked a place on the map next to a body of water that looked ‘cool’.

It was more than ‘cool’. We had a delicious hotpot-style lunch and dip at the Huai Tueng Thao Reservoir, surrounded by locals with big Thai tattoos on their backs drinking Tigers in the afternoon sun. I took another nap in the shade before we put our jeans and helmets back on to drive the last two-hour leg to Chiang Mai.

Thai food at Huai Dam Reservoir.

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio on Pexels.com

Trust your gut

When we arrived in the magical little hippy town of Pai, Fiona and I worked out the kinks in our bodies at Bodhi Tree Yoga. The yoga instructor kept mentioning the ‘Pai Hole’, referring to how people who come to Pai usually stay longer than they originally thought.

We were only in Pai for one full day, because we had to drive back in time. But our scooters gave us the freedom to explore viewpoints, the Sai Ngam hot springs, and various restaurants around town. Though at night you’ll want to give your scooter a rest to explore the famous food stalls of Pai by foot.

Jessy (right) and me (left) at Huai Dam Reservoir after the easy five-hour scooter ride back down from Pai. Leo beers were our preferred brand, with fresh coconuts to stay hydrated.

When you can carry yourself – having your own mode of transport – you have more freedom and power to make choices about your journey. We were underestimated but didn’t let that get us down. We were confident, despite the warnings. Stayed vigilant, despite the contradictions. And had the best adventure, despite obvious deterrents.

Nothing is impossible if you believe in your capabilities. Trust your gut, and always set the bar high for what you can do, no matter what people say are your limitations. Those are the lessons we took away and hope to impart to other female travelers.

Save the list

Aya Services
Poshtel

Hostel in Chiang Mai where you don’t have to share a bathroom, perfect for three women.

Witch House

Witch-themed roadside cafe, one hour from Pai on the way to Chiang Mai

Sai Ngam Hot Springs

The less busy of the two famous hot springs outside of Pai. Not too hot, and perfect for paddling under the jungle foliage.

Huai Nam Dam National Park
Pai Canyon
7 Eleven toastie experience

Travelers in Thailand – especially of the backpacking kind – will rave non-stop about the toasties from 7/11. Grab yourself a toastie, have it heated at the till, and see what the fuss is all about!

Italian restaurant owned by two Italians who have succumbed to the ‘Pai Hole’ for fifteen years. Wine is imported so expect to pay a high price – but nothing beats a crisp sauvignon blanc after eight hours on the road.

Huai Tueng Thao Reservoir

About the author

I’m half-Filipina, half-German, and identify as she/her. You can find me scribbling away around the world and about the world, browsing bookshops, or dancing to live music. If you do – come and say hello! I love connecting with people and thrive knowing that I’ve made a difference in someone’s life.