From Edinburgh to the Scottish Highlands, fall in love with Nessie’s country
The Scottish Highlands showcase an abundance of things to do and places to see. There is something different in store at every turn. Here I take you on a journey from Edinburgh to Glasgow, navigating my way around the Highlands of Scotland.
By Crystal Lobban
Edinburgh, the capital city of Scotland, is often where international tourists take their first steps. Unlike the cultural and bustling city of Glasgow, Edinburgh is a historic city full of Scottish character.
One can’t miss the Royal Mile, a cobblestone street lined with shops selling souvenirs, shortbread and tartan kilts. It is the main thoroughfare of the Old Town of Edinburgh, with many narrow laneways (known as vennels in Scotland) connected to it. Pubs and whisky shops are common, so no one will go thirsty!
The sound of bagpipes echoed through the street as I strolled towards Edinburgh Castle. Perched on top of Castle Rock at the end of the Royal Mile, it is often the featured image of this magical Scottish city. Also the city’s most visited and well-known attraction, famous for the Royal Military Tattoo which is held every August. Inside the castle’s grounds is St Margaret’s chapel, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh dating back to the 12th century.
I spent the afternoon visiting The Royal Yacht Britannia and learning about life on the yacht, a yacht that sailed the Royals around the globe for forty-four years. I decided to take myself on a self-guided audio tour and wandered through the five decks and countless rooms. The dining room was exquisite with its long timber table set with silver tableware – absolutely everything measured to precision. The Royal Deck Tea Room is the perfect place to take a few minutes to sit back and enjoy a ”real” British cup of tea.
As I leave Edinburgh in my hire car to embark on my Scottish Highlands journey, I cross the impressive Queensferry Crossing Bridge over the Firth of Forth. Firths were to become a common water feature throughout my trip.
St Andrews, the home of golf and the city with the oldest Scottish university, was my first stop. The university that made headlines as the place where Catherine, the Duchess of Cambridge, met Prince William, Duke of Cambridge. I was captivated by the ancient ruins of the St Andrews Cathedral. As I stood beside the remnants of the Cathedral, I couldn’t fathom how they were still standing after many centuries – more than 800 years ago!
Highlands, here I come!
As I drive from Aberdeen to Inverness, there are many villages to visit. When overnighting in Aberdeen and eating at a bustling restaurant at Union Square, I learnt about the importance of the oil and gas industry to this region.
Cruden Bay and Peterhead certainly show evidence of this. Massive oil rigs are dotted offshore in the North Sea. Cullen is a small seaside fishing village on the shores of Moray Firth, Scotland’s largest firth stretching over 800 kilometres. The colourful stone cottages and historic stone viaducts are icons of Cullen.
One cannot visit the Highlands and not go looking for ”Nessie”, the one and only Loch Ness monster. So I embarked on a day trip from Inverness – the Highlands Capital – which took me to the extremely deep and dark loch, my eyes gazing across the water’s surface as I sat in anticipation aboard my sightseeing cruise. Through the drenching rain, the ruins of the medieval Urquhart Castle popped up on the shoreline.
Heading north deep into the Highlands, I could spot the one-kilometre Kessock Bridge looming in the distance. A bridge you certainly won’t miss with its two sets of steel towers soaring into the sky! I detoured off the main road into Dornoch, a quaint little village filled with unique shops and flavoursome Scottish cuisine.
Dunrobin Castle – what can I say! A fairytale castle on display with its extensive formal gardens. It is the largest castle in the Highlands and is one of Britain’s oldest inhabited houses dating back to the early 1300s. Sit beside the North Sea and watch a falcon display, relax in the tea rooms or roam through the castle admiring the many historic family portraits.
Back on the road and still feeling as though I am living in a fairytale, I head to Wick for the night, the main town in the far north of Scotland.
John O’Groats is a tiny settlement on Scotland’s north-eastern tip and is one of the ferry departure points for the Orkney Islands (operating between May and September). It’s the point that boasts the longest distance between the most southern and northern tips of mainland Great Britain. Often mistaken as the most northerly point on the mainland.
Placing my feet on the actual most northern point on the mainland of Great Britain was a real thrill. Dunnet Head is bordered by the steep vertical cliffs of the Pentland Firth. A firth that is ferocious enough with the sheer power of the sea to hurl stones and break the lighthouse windows. Smoo Caves
After slowly navigating the many firths and sheep lazily sitting on the narrow one-lane road, I find a hidden gem. It’s easy to miss and drive straight past Smoo Caves, but please don’t!
A wooden staircase zig-zags down a limestone cliff face from the road to the ocean shoreline. You will be awestruck with what lies beneath the road – a unique feature containing both seawater and freshwater. A walkway leads you through different chambers, the outer chamber carved out by the constant pounding of the North Sea and the inner one carved out by the River Alt Smoo. The real treat is to see the waterfall tumbling from the cave roof in the inner chamber.
After navigating the shores of Kyle of Durness heading in a south-west direction, I arrived in Lairg. Following a delicious dinner at the small family-run Lairg Highland Hotel, I ventured out in search of the northern lights – unfortunately they were a no-show! Lairg is well known for its annual sheep sale. Every August, the selling complex plays host to the biggest one-day livestock market in Europe.
Destined for Fort William, I head south and call in at Fort Augustus, the most southern tip of Loch Ness on the Great Glen Way. The Caledonian Canal cuts through the centre of the village with a creative wire sculpture statue of the famous Loch Ness monster.
Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the United Kingdom, standing tall at 1,345 metres above sea level. Ride the gondola up the mountainside to Aonach Mor, which is part of the Ben Nevis range. Enjoy a refreshing beverage and meal at the Snowgoose Restaurant or venture out on the numerous walking tracks, traipsing along steep stony paths and across water trickling over green moss.
After meandering south along the scenic shores of Loch Linnhe, you find yourself in Oban, a beautiful seaside resort town popular with tourists. Located on the Firth of Lorn, it is regarded as the ”Gateway to the Isles”. Oban is a place where one can stay for several nights and keep yourself occupied with the array of activities and sites to see.
Hop on a ferry and embark on a day trip to one of the many islands. Alternatively, stay in town and stroll around the shops, galleries and museums – there is even a chocolate shop to cure the sugar cravings and many pubs to enjoy a pint or two.
Before heading further south to Scotland’s largest city, Glasgow, don’t miss stopping in at the stately Inveraray Castle. Famous for being the home of the well-known Downton Abbey television series and the Duke and Duchess of Argyll. Wander around the many halls and regal rooms, and admire the artwork and family portraits on display. Don’t forget to roam the splendid surrounding gardens.
Rich Scottish history, colourful vegetation, scenic lochs, stunning landscapes at every turn, highland cattle, stock grids, narrow roads and even some tartan painted sheep – that’s what the Scottish Highlands are all about. An abundance of places to love!
10 places you can’t miss in Scotland
- Edinburgh Castle
- The Royal Yacht Britannia
- St Andrews
- Loch Ness
- Dunrobin Castle
- John O’Groats
- Dunnet Head
- Smoo Caves
- Ben Nevis
- Oban
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